The Forbidden Ski Tour, February 27-28

Skiing the North Cascade's Forbidden Tour
by Nick Pope, NMS guide

In what seems like a lackluster winter at lower elevations, I've been constantly amazed that excellent conditions can be found by climbing a little higher in our local mountains. Trees are blooming in the valleys, but an intrepid skier can still be carving powder turns after climbing a few thousand feet.

The low snow year made for a shorter approach as the road was open further than usual. It didn't take long to get to snow and soon we were climbing from the Cascade River Road towards Boston Basin trail head.

Skiing up Cascade River Road with Mix-up Peak, the Triplets and Cascade Peak from left to right. The beginnings of Johannesburg can be seen on the right.








The scenery on this tour begins at the road with the impressive faces of Mix-up Peak, the Triplets, Cascade Peak and, of course, Johannesburg Mountain looming above. From the road at 3,300' we climbed 2,500' to get above treeline, skinning our way through a mixture of open slide paths and old growth hemlock that allowed as easy passage as possible. Entering the alpine we gained the Quien Sabe Glacier setting our sites on Sharkfin Col. This Col would allow us passage over the rocky mountain spine that extends from Forbidden Peak to Boston Peak.

Crossing the Quien Sabe Glacier en route to Sharkfin Col. Sharkfin Tower, the high point directly above the skier, is a terrific summer alpine rock climbing objective. Sharkfin Col is the low point of the ridge to the left.





Since this is ski mountaineering, we soon had our skis on our packs and crampons on our boots for the climb up over the col. The south facing slope had gotten lots of melt-refreeze action and the icy surface made us thankful for crampons and ice axes.

Climbing up Sharkfin Col.




















As we topped out on the col the winds picked up and clouds began closing in. The next day's forecast was for clearing with high pressure. Going over the col is committing as it would be difficult to reverse our path once we rappelled onto the Boston Glacier. We put our faith in NOAA and made the short rappel down the north side.

Rappelling down from Sharkfin Col onto the Boston Glacier.



















Sure enough visibility went from poor to pathetic. Looking into the fog across a heavily crevassed glacier we decided to leave it for morning, dig in for the night and hope those forecasters are right.

Skinning across the Boston Glacier at dawn.

Snow fell through the night. We would occasionally bump the snow off the tarp covering our snow cave to keep it from collapsing. Finally after hot drinks in the morning things were improving. We could make out the mountains and glacier in the predawn light so we got going under headlamps. We had just enough light to enjoy some delightful powder turns down to the low point on this glacier crossing. Soon we were skinning up to the next col enjoying the light show that is a mountain sunrise.

Crossing the Boston Glacier approaching the North Ridge Col.













A quick boot climb got us up over the col at the base of Forbidden's North Ridge. This would put us on the top of the Forbidden Glacier leading west towards Moraine Lake.

Booting up the North Ridge Col.














The decent to Moraine Lake is not just the quintessential leg of this tour, but perhaps of North Cascades ski touring. 3,000' of glacier and rolling terrain under the mighty north faces of Forbidden Peak and Mount Torment, the ridge between clad in hanging ice, looking across at Eldorado Peak with its glacial mantle, Moraine Lake far far below; a tremendous place to be.

Looking across at Eldorado Peak from the top of the Forbidden Glacier.












The skiing on this day was good, we had perhaps hoped for perfect, but we'd settle for the slightly wind effected powder that we had. The scenery certainly made up for it.

Skiing down the Forbidden Glacier to Moraine Lake.













Our next "quintessential" experience came at the lake as we looked up to the daunting climb out of this glacial cirque. With cool temps and limited sun we decided on a south facing climb up the east flanks of the Inspiration Glacier. We crossed a foggy Moraine Lake and picked out a safe line up from the depths.

Skinning across Moraine Lake towards the Inspiration Glacier and Eldorado Peak above.











From the lake at 4,500' we carved a skin track up moraines, around icefalls and between crevasses towards the bench at 7,500' where the Inspiration and Eldorado glaciers meet. The Inspiration, Eldorado, McAllister and Klawatti Glaciers form the largest contiguous ice mass in the Lower 48 that isn't on a volcano.

Climbing up alongside seracs of the Inspiration Glacier.













Our tour was coming to end. Once we crested the Inspiration Glacier and headed south down the Eldorado we would have no more significant climbing to do. We took a final glance at the huge basin we had just crossed and ripped skins for the ride down.

Forbidden Peak and the Forbidden Glacier leading down to Moraine Lake. The crossing from the Boston Glacier is just left of center along the ridge.








If only the expression "Its all down hill from here." applied in this case. The snow would soon be cooked by the sun, the transition from skiing to walking occurs among a tricky boulder field and the hike out is a steep, rugged affair. That is what touring can be in these wild, pristine mountains. Relying on what you bring with you, and in you, is what makes these trips special. I don't mind riding a cable car or sleeping in a hut, but this wilder side of ski touring provides an isolation and adventure that I love.

Johannesburg Mountain peaks through the clouds. The road, our exit, lies at its base 4,000' feet below.












This was a quick trip. We decided on one night out so we could move fast with light packs. It was an athletic pace and we missed out on some good skiing and climbing objectives along the way. This tour is typically done as the 4 day trip, allowing time for a comfortable pace and the possibility of touring the Eldorado plateau. The skiing is never radically steep but snow conditions can be challenging.

I lead this trip for the Northwest Mountain School. For details visit our Forbidden Ski Tour Page at www.mountainschool.com or give us a call at 509-548-5823.